Plight
of the metropolitan food in the year of 1885 Even
today many of us have the idea that the purity and freshness of food in
those days were never under scrutiny. But the actual scenario was different.
In the year of 1885 one Mr. A.Mittir was the sanitary inspector of the
Public Health Department. He wrote a letter on the plight of the metropolitan
food to the editor of the Statesman with utter disappointment. His allegations
against milk were that it was being milked from sick cows and has been
seen containing puss on proper examination. The milkmen were mercilessly
adulterating the milk with water and to fool the lactometer were
mixing
sugar and starch. One examination revealed that a substantial quantity
of chalk has been mixed with the milk. Consumption of this milk afflicted
different kinds of stomach disorders and gastritis. Assessment of milk
revealed presence of fungus in it. To get extra milk from the cows they
were injected with harmful drugs. One could easily witness the hellish
scene of injecting the cows if one visited the cow-shed at Ultadanga.
Not
only milk, Mr.Mittir also gave a grim picture of the plight of the clarified
butter, butter and mustard oil that were consumed by the populace. Due
to the mixture of "LARD" made from oil and animal fat, dyspepsia, digestion
problems and cholera were a common feature in every household. So many
people were losing their lives in the metropolis due to adulteration.
The pious Hindus who believed that they were taking pure clarified butter
were actually eating turpentine oil, hoof oil and a bone juice prepared
in the Munshitala slums. The confection that was sold on the streets and
shops were being sold
openly,
in the process accumulating dust that contained fine particles of horse
dung. The consumption of this kind of food resulted in digestion problems,
acidity and sour eructation.
In a gully in Shyambazar, Mr.Mittir saw a ditch, the water in which has
gone green and poisonous bubbles were emitted constantly.
Beside this pool,small
cloth
bundles
were hung on bamboostaves, which were left to soak in this filthy water.
These bundles were of curdled milk that was used in the making of sweets
found throughout
the city. The plight of mutton, beef and fish need not be mentioned.
Sick cows were regularly being slaughtered in the slaughterhouse at Tangra.
To subdue the pungent smell of the decaying carrion tamarind and chili
powder was used. This rubbish was regularly supplied at various restaurants
in Kolkata. Small shrimps were cultivated in the roadside sewage drains. In
the North Calcutta region, rice was being regularly mixed with rotten
rice powder. Barge full of curd coming from Ghatal, had clusters of Mapot
larvae in them. Imported tinned fish and condensed milk too were not safe
as many of them contained rotten items.
Dr.Bidhan Chandra Roy established the Mother Dairy
Absolutely pure milk came to the Bengalis only after
the great Dr.Bidhan Chandra Roy established the Mother Dairy at Haringhata.
In fact we admit it or not, we are perhaps getting a much better package
now-a-days; courtesy to the Mother Dairies and Amuls. Considering
everything, it seems that the golden age of the Bengali food has started
in the recent times. If one has money and of course a right taste for
food, he can enjoy an array of dishes, which, he has never tasted before.
Due to the globalization, today's Bengali, according to his wish and temperament
can turn into a Punjabi, a Madrasi, a Pathan, a Mughal, a French,
sometimes a Chinese, a Russian or an American! And they do not have to
go picking restaurants for these! With the advent of modern cooking ranges,
pressure cookers and ladles, their kitchens can be turned into global
restaurants.
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